Mount Kinabalu

I have never set foot on West Malaysia (part of the Borneo island) and for all I know, my impression on that island was that whatever things shipped there will cost an additional RM2. I don’t quite get the idea as of why would the government imposes additional charges on them. They are afterall a part of Malaysia. We were separated by the South China Sea but nevertheless, we are still Malaysia. Then again, everything is unexplainable when the government wants to do something.

I always enjoy sitting by the window for the best time during a flight - the take off and the landing. Usually my friends would let me have that seat because they are not quite bothered with the same view over again.

I heard that a passport was once needed for Malaysians to travel to the East but now, this has been abolished and replaced by using identification card along with a piece of printed receipt as the travel document.East Malaysia is made up of Sabah and Sarawak (Do remember to retain this receipt my fellow Malaysians. The custom officers will make sure that you are thoroughly ridiculed. I would have wanted to argued with E when she said that it's perfectly understandable for the officers to show such behaviors because a lot of illegal foreigners from Kalimantan and Philippines were trying their luck in entering Sabah. I did not argue with her though...as I don't see a point. Anyways in defense of my opinions, I feel that the officers should be more polite in treating the civilians and also, we don't use computers for nothing. A receipt like that is much more easy to be faked as it would be harder to hack into the computer systems. So, they should mind their manners and use the computer for efficient verification (=biometrics)!).

This month brought me to Sabah with a few friends and our aim was to conquer Mount Kinabalu. Standing at 4,095 m above sea level, it was documented as an easy climb without the need of special mountaineering equipment or mountain climbing skills. That's it - for a physically fit person and a physically fit person is one who doesn't only jog the normal terrain on the weekends. I...jog whenever I can...and hike little hills whenever I can...and I had altitude sickness BUT I made it to the Lowe's Peak's base. Right, I can't make it to the peak's Peak because my body failed me. I vomited at one perfect spot - emptied my entire stomach. Still, I　ｆｅｌｔ so uncomfortable all the way down until we passed Sayap-Sayap (2km from Laban Rata). But hey, I still made it within a reasonable period of hours with a lot of photo-takings in between as well as a cramp-free and minimal muscle aches! That is indeed, my victory. No point rushing when you know exactly what consequences you'll get right :) So, that's my another World Heritage site conquered. 

Our trip begun with KT linking us up for the climb－ａ group of 6 scattered around in Penang, KL, Muar and Sabah ｇａｔｈｅｒｅｄ　ｕｐ　ａｔ　ｔｈｅ　ａｉｒｐｏｒｔ．Ｗe managed to get hold of a good tour guide: Jackz Lee. His fees are very reasonable and overall, I am truly satisfied with his service. I would definitely recommend him to any interested parties. I especially thankful for the mountain guide whom he had appointed for us - Pakcik Hussidin (I'm sorry that I didn't manage to get the spelling right but that was how we called him). Pakcik had been very supportive during our climb and took care of us all the way.  

Albeit my good impressions on this tour guide, I do feel a ｓｏｍｅｗｈａｔ cheated that he did not inform us earlier of the change of route- we intended to start our trip at the Mersilau gate but was later coaxed to start at Timpohon because he told us that (in his experience of 54 tour climbs) we will fare better if we take a shorter route (Timpohon is 2km less than that of Mersilau trail). I understand his good intention but I'd prefer to be notified beforehand (though yea, it doesn't really make much difference after 4-5km of hiking...unless the woods give you some surprises, by that time, you'd want to reach Laban Rata earlier; as what he mentioned).

We took an early flight at 630am and reached Sabah in 2.5 hours time. Upon touch down, we went to Yee Fung (located in the town..15mins away from the budget terminal) for brunch and yes, I love the difference ｉｎ　ｔｈｅ　curry laksa ｔｈｅｒｅ. The noodles was different from KL. In KL, we either have yellow noodles or mihun (thin rice noodles) but that in Sabah uses the semi-thick rice noodles (very similar to that of Vietnam pho - only slightly thinner). The soup itself has an intense flavour with slight santan to add on to its taste. Very tasty. I did not try its claypot rice but from its outlook, I'd say it must have been very delicious as well. 

 

Curry laksa..only RM4.50

Claypot rice

 

That toad..bleh

 After brunch, we went for a short walk at the Philippine Market nearby. Well, it is a very localized Phillippine Market with local catches (sea cucumber, salted fish and the like) for localized souvenirs. I apologize for the emphasis but really, it's all local stuff. I supposed, it would not be in my 'localized' category if I could find the Philippine's milk candy there (yummy!). There were something special there though - Toad purse and steel motorbike/bicycle/trishaw collectibles. I can't imagine anyone putting coins into the toad purse ('Oh, my new preserved toad skin; the fashion of the month! Fresh from the swamp:) ')but I would definitely go for the collectibles. It's worth the buy really. I was quoted RM100 for a motorbike but seriously, I would consider about buying if she can go lower- to RM50 but too bad, it was a no-deal.

These are not representative of Phillippine...it's quite misleading to sell them in the Phillippine's market.

Harbour behind the market

The market from the outside where tailors would set their machines. You can mend/alter your clothes there

We hang about there while waiting for E to arrive and after picking her up, we make our way to Kundasang. It was a ｗｉｎｄｉｎｇ road and without good skills, you could lose your limbs/life there　－ｂｅｃａｕｓｅ　ｗe went during the week of Hari Gawai．　Ａccording to Jackz, we were put at a higher risk since locals would drink their heart out for the entire week. Gulp..

Anyways, we 'joined' in the celebration with an early drink at 3-ish pm. We stopped by a stall that sells roasted wild boar and very delicious rice wine. My friends love the pork which I find it to be OK and we LOVE the wine. 

That's the one! But how can we smuggle it through if we are to buy home? All of us did not want the hassle of checking in our bags

The doggie waiting for us to throw him a bone

This stall is just by the side of the road which we took to go to the mountain. It has got a lot of customers!

We also drop by this upside down house en route to Kundasang. You get to enter at the fee of RM10. If given the time, I'd love to check out the interior.

Kundasang town

Our first day was spent in Kundasang town where we bought Adidas Kampung - the recommended rubber shoe with good grip. I did not buy it - for one, my size had run out, second, I actually had a trekking shoe and it was a good deal too. Weinbreiner at 1/2 price (only RM40) from Bata and an additionally massage gel sole (RM32). These lasted me the entire trip up the mountain and down. We stayed the night at Cottage Hotel - don't worry, it is clean and I had a comfortable night. 

Our room

E and I woke up early for the sunrise which is early by Sabah standard - about 5.30am but the sunrise was nothing spectacular. After breakfast and checking out, we continued our journey to Timpohon Gate where the fun begins. Being born and bred in KL, this would be my second trip to a real forest. Prior to the trip, I was worried about leeches and mosquitoes but silly me. There was no mosquitoes during the climb up and KT was right. No leeches in sights too. He told me that leeches only appear in swamps or wet soils. *blush* Well, I have no knowledge of that at all. So, anyways, I followed his advice and wore shorts. The air became cold when you stop, otherwise, you wouldn't regret wearing shorts.Oh, and make sure you have your walking stick. It is a must for people who are like me - relying on the stick so that I don't hurt my knees.It works for me - I hardly suffer any bad muscle aches.


Now, the climb up was one hell of a many stairscases. I don't know how my friends were able to sprint up but I did take my own sweet time and arrived at Laban Rata in about 6 hours time. It first started with normal dirt path and the path gradually turns into a steeper rock filled one. Timpohon trail did not offer much of a sight but we did spot these:


I insisted on carrying my own backpack as well as camera bag up and I made it!

I managed to squeeze in my windbreaker, some medications, 1 thermos, some snacks, some toiletries, headlight

I was quite surprised that the toilets are pretty well-maintained. Prior to this trip, I had a feeling that toilets are most probably made of hut and water supply would be scarce. I mean, yes, it is a World Herritage site and I should not expect any less than those highway stops in Cambodia (which were all well-maintained and clean - much better than those in Malaysia; at times...seriously!) but Malaysia has this thing for not preserving what the nature had given her. I was wrong about this anyways. The rest stops ｗｅｒｅ　renovated I supposed and they are in a clean and good shape. That's not applicable to the water provided along the way though. If you do indeed need a lot of water for hiking, I would advise you to either bring extra water supply or iodine to purify the water (another surprise: I can't find iodine for water treatment in any local pharmacy in KL. Maybe better luck in specialized stores). The water supplied from a huge tank was not treated and I am very particular with the water I drink. Moreover, you can still see a yellow tinge in the water (My friends were down with diarrhea later on but well, it might not be caused by the water but still, I don't want to risk it) . So, it's another consolation that I took my own sweet time up. My thirst level was controlled. Well, I brought 2 bottles of 500ml water but my trick was to suck on sweets in between walks (VitaC was my solution).

I've forgotten what's the name of this bug...it was shown by our guide

A 1km up the mountain was like 2km down on the flat road and I was overjoyed when I saw the first hut. I'm like..YESS..but that joy was quickly diminished. I was not there yet. It took me another few more steps and there I was - REACHED. I took in the sight of the mountain behind and that yellow double-storey building. Y and KT were somewhere half-way up the mountain on a mission to sight some unique plants/birds/insects. G and E were already up there enjoying the sight and hot drinks. I was feeling the chill already at this point but I sat there still on the large rock nearby with K and had the remaining of our lunch pack. This is where I would want to enjoy my lunch - together with a bed of yellow dandelions; which was not a favourite of many as according to Jackz since these lovely flowers are considered as a type of parasite. Once a dandelion has grown in that grassland, then you'd be sure that there's only dandelion there because they took up the nutrients and space from other plant species. Not too bad for me but he said people who wanted to build a golf-course would be in an stressed state, trying to get rid of every single root of that flower. That's what you paid for a golf club membership~

After our meal, we went in and check out our bunks. I was quite worried also about the bed-bug issue which I read from forums. It was mentioned that the humid air up the mount attracted a lot of bed-bug and I was half-wanted to bring up my sleeping bag. I didn't bring it up though due to the limited space of my backpack and I'm glad that I did not add on the bag because I don't need it! The bed is clean and there wasn't any dried blood spot or black spot indicative of the presence of a bed bug clan. Since I suffered no bites, I would testify the absence of bed bug during my visit :) One thing troubled me though - the freezing cold water. Imagine this: ice downpour during winter. Yes. It would take a seriously tough person to shower in that freezing ice water in the shower room. As a compensation, the toilet is decently clean.

Oh, besides that, another point to add is that you should keep your gadgets charged before your climb up because you can only charge your devices at the reception. Power supply is minimal in Laban Rata.  Anyways, I don't think you need much of your smartphone up there in the mountain - though they have very good coverage and you can Facebook there. For myself, that 3 days were my Internet-free days and I don't quite miss it. I only miss it on the part where I was thinking about my data analysis assignment. Darn...3 full days away, else, I'm 3 days nearer to graduation.

We entertained ourselves with a card game before dinner at 6pm and by 8pm, all lights should be off. I think the altitude had gotten to me or maybe it was that chocolate milk I had. I shouldn't had taken that because I was quite full from dinner. It was just the thought of having something chocolatey and you bet, this thought has a price. I was unable to sleep because I had this purging feeling but I just can't vomit. I had some thermal packs with me but that did not do much help (regarding thermal packs, I anticipated those which I used before from Taiwan - RM2/pack and it was an authentic thermal pack but these which I bought from Universal traveller are only warm when I put them in my pockets. RM2 as well but it was downright lousy). I tossed and turned and went to the toilet twice AND FINALLY, purged something out from my throat at the 3rd time. I felt much better and went to sleep after popping 2 panadols.

By 12.30 am, the entire building was alive. We were supposed to be ready for breakfast and then the final climb. I had 2 slices of bread, cornflakes with milk and some eggs..Bad mistake...I was okay during the climb up but once we reached 4000m....hah...that purging feeling came haunting.

Before that, I must document on my feeling during the climb. Since everyone else were doing it in line, I don't feel that bad as I get to stop occasionally and our paces differ only after Sayap-Sayap. KT, E, Y and G were the faster ones and they went miles away before us. K and I were slowly getting there and I really enjoyed the rope climbing part. It was so much fun and the view of the entire Kundasang town amidst the darkness is beautifully blended in with the thundering clouds nearby. That clump of clouds look really angry and it lashed out lightning bolts every now and then; painted its nearby air with a slight red tinge and white glitters.I would love to stop and take a shot at it but then..second thought, I would risk missing the sunrise.

So up we climb and climb and oh boy...the more I climb, the urge to puke was getting stronger. The pressure seemed to threaten me that if I climb higher, I will not only puke but my bowel will attempt to empty itself. I shouldn't have eaten so much before the climb and I should force myself to do whatever toilet business too!

Ehem..

There are rocks arranged in the form of pyramid or vertical-like - for photo taking sake by those who didn't manage to climb up to the peak. Well...I don't need them right - I made it to the peak afterall~~

ANYWAYS, I made it up to the base of the peak. It was only about 300m away...and there, I called it a day. I can't drag myself up anymore because the altitude sickness took over me. I vomited all of my breakfast and for a while, I felt better - until the wind came. I was shivering so hard! The guide had to cover me up with his jacket and he helped me to take photo of me and my friends. He was really enthusiastic and asked me to pose and such but...haha...I am too sick to do anything. You can practically kick me over the edge and I will topple down into...the abyss.

Kind souls

I didn't bother much actually - although deep down, I would have wanted to walk up to the peak's Peak. So, Kath and I watched the sunrise together with the guide and Jacky, from Cheras. He was a real good samaritan because he followed us all the way until we are good enough to go on our own. He gave me biscuits and glucose and tried to watch over us together with the guide. I would have taken his contact to pass him his photo in my camera but I'm too sick at that moment to be bothered with anything. My stomach was taking a rollercoaster ride and I vomited a good 4 times all the way down to Sayap-sayap. I don't mean to pollute the place but I really can't hold it in.

It was quite different to watch sunrise from the highest mountain in Malaysia. It was only in a few minutes and the sun had risen. A day's hike for a few minutes' process. It's like you took an entire life working towards one goal. But of course, if you take note of the journey of the hiking process, then it's another story altogether:)  

Found it! KT told me it's a balsam

Taken at a rest area before Kundasang

Meow..he seems to be winking

Also taken at the rest area before Kundasang. I think she's very pretty :)

We stay a night in Sabah town at Masada Backpackers before our flight on the next day. We took the family room and I have no complaints at all. The beds are clean and so are the common shower room. The location may seem a bit dodgy but it's still okay since it's pretty near to the shopping complex and dining area. We walked about 5mins to get to a food court where they have a great Pan Mee stall. Somewhere near Asia City. I love the taste and the drink as well (lemonade lime) :)

We are quite dead on the first day and collapsed into the bed as soon as we are done with shower and such. Well, we will have an early morning on the next day. Morning call at 5.30am for river rafting at Padas River. Next post for this...you bet, I truly survived this rafting trip to tell you this tale....